The Çoruh Valley

The Çoruh Basin is one of the most spectacular nature reserves in Turkey. Because the humid air from the Black Sea is blocked by the Kaçkar Mountains, the Çoruh Valley enjoys the benefits of the rain shadow and brilliant sunshine. The Çoruh River carves deeply down between the Kaçkar Mountains to the north and the Mescit Mountains in the south. Between the lively little towns of Ispir and Yusufeli many streams join this fast flowing river and form side valleys where the difference between the lowest and the highest point can reach up to 3,000 metres. The vegetation and plant cover is astonishingly diverse due to extreme variations in climate within a very small area. While the lush green floors of the valleys have an almost subtropical climate with rice paddies, olives, pomegranates and fig trees, the upper parts of the side valleys are covered with a mixed forest of coniferous and deciduous trees and alpine meadows. There are estimated to be around 100 plant species endemic to the area or found in very few other places, including rare orchids, bellflowers and irises. Huge clusters of these plants can be found in the Ovit, the Çoruh and the Barhal valleys.

Climatic Regions

The region can be roughly divided into four separate environments, depending on altitude. These regions cannot be clearly defined and change from valley to valley:
1. The bottom of the valley, which receive humidity from the river,
2. The arid hills, where temperatures rise up to 40 C° and water availability is very limited,
3. The subalpine hills, where temperatures are temperate and,
4. The alpine mountains with long winters and a short growing period.

The bottom of the valley

Cultivated land

Because of its relative humidity, the Çoruh Valley is lush and densely vegetated. The land around the towns and villages is intensely cultivated, full of orchards, vines and vegetable gardens. The most important fruits are figs, pomegranates, olives and mulberries. Mulberries are of particular economic value to the region, which is famous for its pekmez (syrup) and paste. In these almost subtropical conditions, even rice can be cultivated around the villages of the Çoruh Valley, the brilliant green paddy fields irrigated directly from the river.

Wildflowers of the Çoruh Valley

Next to the patches of lush green cultivated land there are delightful wildflowers. One very rare species of flower of outstanding beauty is Neotchichatchevia isatidea. The deep purple bunches of flowers with their green stems and leaves rise out of loose stones on rocky fields beside the road.

This region is host to many interesting species like the Sophora Root (Sophora alopecuroides) whose cream-coloured flowers grace the sandbanks of the riverbed. Nearby are the bright pink flowers of the Pelargonium enlicherianum – also known as geranium – which stand out against the grey rocks.

The roadsides are covered with capers. Their delicate pale white-purple flowers open just for a short time in the morning and attract thousands of bees which produce the famous honey of Ispir. The buds are used extensively in cooking.

The arid hills above the valley

The plants that grow above the cultivated land have adapted to the dry conditions of the hills surrounding the narrow valleys of the Çoruh basin. Nevertheless, there is a rich diversity of xerophytic herbaceous plants which have developed a fascinating mechanism to survive under the penetrating sun and arid conditions.

The chirp of the crickets, the scent of aromatic herbs and the torrid heat give these places a special atmosphere. At first glance this scrubland might appear lifeless but on closer inspection you can find many tiny purple flowers of Pink Everlasting (Xeranthemum annuum L.) or species of Yellow Flax (Linum mucronatum subsp. armenum) which are hidden among the stones and junipers.

Some scattered pines and oaks offer shade during the hottest hours of the day. In the evening sun the green patches of the vegetation harmonise with the varicoloured terrain and the slopes of the Çoruh valley glow in an amazing variety of different hues.

The subalpine and alpine zone

Following the gushing streams in the side valleys, the grass is scattered with wildflowers and in the shadow of magnificent pine trees. The transition between dry hills and lush meadows is dramatic and varies from valley to valley. Steep slopes, scree and granite rocks alternate with wetlands, lush pastures and forested hills. In addition to the altitude, the number of microclimates, the soil, and the water supply of the terrain play a crucial role in the plant species growing here.

With the increasing altitude a growing number of trees form a mixed forest of pine, spruce and firs. Dense forests cover the northern slopes, which receive more precipitation. The majestic Red Poeny (Paeonia mascula) blooms next to Barberry (Berberis vulgaris) and Viburnum (Viburnum orientale). Wild onions (Allium sp) wave in the wind.

Pastures

As you climb higher, coniferous and deciduous trees, florid rhododendrons and rose bushes alternate with wildflowers. Steep cliffs and stony hills frame pastures which are enchanting in every season. In summer, during the hay harvest, the fields are a mosaic of different colours; in autumn, the meadows are withered by the sun and the leaves turn to orange and gold; in winter, the snow covered trees glisten in the sun, and in spring the fields are covered with wildflowers.

Wild poppies glow in orange and red. Besides the Oriental Poppy (Papaver orientale), the endemic poppy (Papaver laterium) is scattered in thousands along the banks of mountain streams. Due to its beauty, the poppy was grown as an ornamental plant as early as 5000 BC in Central Anatolia.

Climbing up to 2000 metres, you will find rare species of light yellow Oxlip (Primula elatior subsp. pallasi) and the bright yellow Cowslip (Primula veris subsp. columnae). The pastel purple Auricula (Primula auriculata), orange Red Avens (Geum coccineum) and Dragonwort (Polygonum bistorta) are scattered along the banks of streams. The yellow and deep blue flowers of Marigold and Milkweed Gentian (Gentiana asclepiadea) star among the dark green grasses. Deep purple Armenian grape hyacinths (Muscari armeniacum) and the magenta Pinks mingle in the meadows. Rosebay Willowherb (Epilobium angustifolium) and the pastel violet of Crown Vetch (Coronilla varia) adorn the verges of roads and tracks. Aromatic herbs like thyme, mint and sage perfume the grasslands and are used to flavour local dishes and for their medicinal properties.

Rocky fields and scree

On the road to Barhal where water bursts from the granite rocks and forms small waterfalls, you will find Sedum pilosum, commonly known as stonecrops. Blackberry bushes straggle along the roadside and wild hollyhocks line the paths.

Scarps and cliff faces are populated with deep purple clusters of Dame’s Rocket (Hesperis matronalis) and the tiny pure white flowers of Rock Cress (Arabis caucasica) stand out against the granite rocks, amid which an endemic species of brilliant blue Speedwell (Veronica oltensis) grows in profusion.

Alpine meadows

At higher altitudes conditions get harder. The growth period is shorter, and the land is covered with snow until early summer. In spring, the bells of the mahogany purple Fritillaria latifolia spring from the earth in the high moist meadows of Moryayla and the Devedağı Pass. Above Kılıçkaya wild tulips of the species Tulipa Julia start to bloom in May.

In the beautiful Yaylalar valley the Caucasian Anemone (Anemone albana) with its deep purple petals and bright yellow pistils and the Narcissus Anemone are extremely common.